Andrew Dellos: The secret to a successful restaurant — great service | Предприниматель

Andrew Dellos: The secret to a successful restaurant — great service

March 23rd, 2011 Журнал «Предприниматель»

Andrei K. Dellos not by hearsay know how to make a fashionable and very expensive institution, with, that there were queues. Each opening a new restaurant – the number one event in the restaurant business. Each year in the capital appeared another wonder of culinary Dellosa, but now there was a slight pause. One can guess that it will soon be born megaproject. We present our video interview with director Turandot restaurant, and a text interview with the owner of the restaurant – Andrei Dellosa.

– You have three degrees. You could do anything, but chose the restaurant business. Why?

– Contingency, although I love spending time in the kitchen, and my friends agree that turns out pretty good. In Soviet times, to my mom, who was an actress, often came to friends, going to a club – secular youth. She was able to receive visitors and well prepared. I have continued this tradition. To treat me well – a matter of honor. Nevertheless, it had nothing to do with business. I will say more when we started to work with Anton Tabakov and partitioned zones of influence, a kitchen and PR had to be on it. For my part, responsible for organizational matters.
Over time, and had to solve the problem of the kitchen, and now I almost kill my stomach endless tastings. But I can categorically state that without my approval, no dish does not get into the menu. This is a complicated and lengthy process, and often a breakdown of all is not restricted.
So start – an accident, and development – from childhood.

– How it all began?

– With some stories. Arrived in Moscow, and I stole all the documents. The recovery process took a long time. I just can not sit around and so asked his friend to open an art club. The main focus we have done to the party, but the club has a small cafe. Gradually, the emphasis began to shift toward the kitchen, and for me it was a natural. You’ve probably noticed that I did not figure in the society pages. I do not have time to go somewhere. Besides the five years of existence, “Soho” and “Pilot” I natusovalsya to such an extent that is probably a bucket that I was supposed to last a lifetime, already drunk without a trace. Now for my creative work, both in design and gastronomy, interesting. Life has placed their dots on “i”.

– How ideas are born of your restaurants?

– When thinking about it, it seems to me that every great idea comes from delusions of a madman. Personally, I love and have always loved fairy tales. Another thing is that the amount of sugar and syrup must be carefully dosed. For example, in the “Shinko” There is a special overdose, this corresponds to the concept of institution. In the “Cafe” Pushkin “and” Writers’ Club “is much less sweet, but in any case all this fairy tale.
A man crossed the threshold of our institutions are encouraged to enter into a special microcosm. It turns out it’s him or not – the second question. Our guests will have to play some role, and they may not even notice what is happening around them. The point in a certain mood and atmosphere. On the stretch of the imagination can think of is directing.
In our restaurants, all visitors – actors. And with each new restaurant theatrical ratio increases sharply. The next project he will fly up to the maximum.

– Maybe your waiter has to undergo a special training course?

– Undoubtedly, the preparation is very serious. Interior and kitchen create a special atmosphere. The problem of staff – to support it. Atmosphere of a place affects both the guests and those who work in it. Once I was an unwilling listener a conversation and all the time now cite him as an example. Guests are asked the waiter: “If this is the restaurant of the XIX century, you’re probably not a waiter, and sex?”. In general, this question is repeated very often, and there is a standard answer: while sex was in the taverns and restaurants have already worked as a waiter. But the young man, to my amazement, said: “I am ruined nobleman, who was forced to go to work, to have the honor to serve you.” This is an example, when the machine starts to function on its own. Of course, not a hundred percent of people respond well, but many. I took this as a kind of victory. In my waiters institutions absorb the microclimate, and then give its guests.

– Is there a problem of staff turnover?

– Our staff often try to entice. Many of the waiters, “Cafe” Pushkin “made it very tempting offers, for example, take the post of Director. But if a person quits, then I think that’s gone, thank God. In our big house, there are certain laws under which its walls who left no way back. Of course, there are special cases – the complexity of the family, health problems, but if it was voluntary desire, then knock on the locked door is useless. Such rules allow to keep everything under control.
It seems to me that if a person goes, he’s just something not understood. We are rapidly developing, and if not consider a short break, which arose from the preparation of a new project, the annual open a new establishment. Restaurants require a professional. It is easy to guess that the new posts are our own staff. Therefore, an able man can make us a fantastic career.

– Is a competition among your institutions located on the restaurant street?

– Choice – happiness. I will not argue that in front of some guests there is a problem, where are all the same to go. But each of my original concept of the restaurant, they occupy very different niches. No competition.
In recent conversation about restaurants has become very fashionable. When I go to visit, note the amusing phenomenon – some rabid fan of “Drums” and visited her only someone believes that there should be only in the “Shinko”, and so on. Of course, this debate is very pleasant to listen to. I see the separation of guests with the same interests, tastes.

– Does it happen so that guests do not know who the owner of your restaurants?

– Constantly. Previously, our institutions did not have signs. Who knew that and went. Then I had to hang the plaque, but not for advertising, but because he always went to visit other restaurants looked and asked, “This is a” Barrel “? – “Drum”, “Drum” go. ” When this phenomenon became widespread, I realized that at least small signs are needed. And the fact that people go to Dellosa the “White Sun of the Desert”, and by Novikov in the “Central House of Writers” – all normal. Nothing wrong with that. Just to have an interest in our institutions. The problem arises only when the guests in “Le Duque” trying to order a brew and pastries from the “tavern”. Explain to them that this is impossible, impossible, because they have iron argument: “What do you balk. Boss then you have one. Give foie gras washed down with kvass. ” Tastes differ.

– What are you most attracted to the profession of restaurateur?

– I believe that this profession without a bottom. How much would you not digging into the depths of the restaurant direction, the end would never be seen. Such a hodgepodge of art, psychology, creativity, technical skills not found in any other profession, even medicine. How much you make discoveries, you still know how much yet to learn a new future.

– What do you think the main thing in this business?

– The successful restaurateurs in the world is not so much. The main components of success is almost impossible to meet together, because the necessary combination of qualities such as extreme degree artov, tediousness and manic persistence, but in life, as a rule, a person or a creator or a manager. For this reason, most people have nothing.
Often have to solve everything at once. You’ve just solved the questions concerning the organization of work, but now call a decorator, and begins a discussion of some unimaginable vignettes. And he asked me why I was talking with a hardness in his voice. And I try to explain that just have not had time to depart from previous discussions. Or another common case. In the office during breaks in important negotiations with the unthinkable cook dishes in their hands – need urgently, until cooled down, try new foods. And if you do not concentrate on tasting, it is possible to give the boss the wrong advice.

– How easy is it to open a restaurant?

– Oilers, for example, easily. The question is, what will happen next. I believe that now in the Moscow region offer slightly ahead of demand, which is good for customers, but it’s hard for restaurateurs. The competition will soon become so rigid, that the overall system catering will be improved. Existence of other options will not be. Everyone knows the formula – the increased supply in the market leads to an inevitable improvement of the quality.
Newcomers will have to difficult. In the late ’80s it was possible to open a room, put the tables, put them on the tablecloth and say that this restaurant. The modern restaurant has an incredible number of terms – the location, scope of audience, culinary direction, the interior and so on. I’m not talking about technical matters. Of course, most newcomers is extremely difficult to guess. Another thing, if a person after the first bruises decides to stay in this business and will learn from their mistakes. For restaurateurs have no choice – either go out of business, or improve.

– Can you give some advice to those who still dared to try his hand in the restaurant business?

– A difficult question. When I advise someone not to open a restaurant, it is perceived as an attempt to cut off competitors. I can say that if people knew in advance of what they will encounter, the vast majority do not and would begin. Risky Business! All are constantly on the brink, to strain, but few people understand this.
I always say, everyone knows how to treat stomach ulcers, making movies and restaurants open. Anyone who had ever been in a restaurant, tell us how to open a good restaurant, and is incurable. Recover only those who have climbed up there. A friend said: “I do not know what I’m still going to do in life, but sure, what will not – open a restaurant.” And these friends I have many. But this applies only to those who are ill with it.

– How do you think of the idea of ​​revival of the small cafes “for lovers” such as those used to be in Moscow?

– I really want to be in Moscow again emerged the Viennese cafe. I do not know why they call them. How things are. This is something easy, comfortable and decorating the city and life in general.
There is one serious problem – a cafe is not very profitable. There are wealthy people, who felt that Moscow was not enough of these establishments, but here’s something that concerns profit from them …
Cafe should be placed in convenient places, but a wild one that is not real rental rate at the root kills all the good initiatives. If I were rich enough to buy a property, such as Tverskaya Street, we would make sure a network of such cafes. At least in order to beautify our city. While it is impossible, but after a year I plan to open a similar institution. Let’s see what happens.
Complexity in the fact that, in terms of the client, it comes “sit” and is usually almost no food and drink orders, but in terms of a restaurateur, he will “take” table. But such places need people, even City Hall knows it. It is clear that without help from the city it will not work ever. Unfortunately, few could have imagined that the restaurant business may need something

– you do not want to open a restaurant of your counterparts abroad?

– I am most interested in creating something new and do something in other countries without my constant presence there can not be. There are about twenty offers to open restaurants in Europe, but then I have to put the bed on the plane. So while I do what I do.

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